Fresh meat is a sustainable choice

This commotion over slaughtered rabbits on the grounds of my home, Kingman Hall, reveals the stark reality of our food system but brings about a hopeful set of alternatives. I too often find myself distanced from the realities of my food. The frozen chicken breasts sitting in Safeway bring us as close to the animal from whence they came as Corn Flakes do to a corn field.

Here in Berkeley, many people learn and understand that the meat industry is unhealthy, cruel and ecologically unsustainable. The industrialized food system commodifies our food, cutting costs at the expense of the consumer, the workers, the animals and our ecosystems. The solution is to create small-scale and local food systems — a diet that respects labor, keeps ecosystems sustainable and builds closer communities.

When I slaughtered locally raised rabbits at Kingman Hall, with an open invitation to friends and housemates, it was a locavore consumer choice. A friend of mine raised the rabbits for food on kitchen scraps in a backyard six blocks from my house, proving that local eating can be both feasible and affordable. In addition to decoupling ourselves from industrialized meat, butchering the rabbits brought home the realities of animal protein. Sourcing meat in this manner affords consumers like me the transparency necessary to make ethically conscious decisions on the humane and ecological implications of meat consumption — a level of transparency impossible with commercial meat sources, even organic ones.

Meat is a critical part of small-scale local food production in the Bay Area’s semi-arid ecology. Michael Pollan has noted that in climates with less rainfall, animal protein is key to a local diet. While intensive plant-protein agriculture often requires lots of water and good soil, animals like cattle and rabbits will thrive on plants and scraps that humans will not eat. In “The Omnivore’s Dilemma,” Pollan kills and butchers a hog to demonstrate sustainable meat production.

I had the space to have such an educational and political experience at Kingman Hall because the community is committed to being conscious consumers and intentional actors in our ecosystem. Although as a restaurant-grade kitchen we cannot buy or serve this type of unregulated meat, we do, as a house, have food policies that make all our meat, most of our dairy and all our produce local and organic — almost all from within 150 miles. Because we buy our food collectively, we are able to source from organic and local farms while keeping within a five-dollar-per-person-per-day budget. Furthermore, these rabbits stand in line with a cooperative culture that values and actively protects our branch of Strawberry Creek, raises chickens to turn our food scraps into eggs, composts on-site and grows our own herbs and oyster mushrooms.

I would challenge you all to make our community even more of a leader in the sustainable living and local food movement.  Part of the solution lies, I would argue, in the opportunity of alternative meat-sourcing made feasible by small-scale, local animal husbandry uniquely enabled by the growing East Bay DIY urban agriculture movement.

Gabe Schwartzman is a junior at UC Berkeley and a resident and kitchen manager of the Kingman Hall co-op.

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Archived Comments (11)

  1. Guest says:

    Read this to learn more about the myths of “sustainable meat”

     

    http://www.criticalanimalstudies.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/2-JCAS-Vol-VIII-Issue-I-and-II-2010-Essay-GREEN-EGGS-AND-HAM-pp-8-32.pdf

     

    “Green” Eggs
    and Ham? The Myth of Sustainable Meat and the Danger of the Local

     

    Abstract

     In the New York Times bestseller, The
    Omnivores Dilemma, Michael Pollan popularizes the idea of a ―local‖ based
    diet, which he justifies, in part, in terms of environmental sustainability. In
    fact, many locavores argue that a local based diet is more environmentally
    sustainable than a vegan or vegetarian diet and concludes that if vegans and
    vegetarians truly care about the environment they should instead eat
    sustainably raised local meat. However locavores are incorrect in their
    analysis of the sustainability of a local based diet and in its applicability
    for large scale adaptation. Instead locavores engage in the construction of ―a
    literary pastoral,‖ a desire to return to a nonexistent past, which falsely
    romanticizes the ideals of a local based lifestyle. They therefore gloss over
    the issues of sexism, racism, speciesism, homophobia and anti-immigration
    sentiments which an emphasis only on the local, as opposed to the global, can
    entail. In this manner the locavorism movement has come to echo many of the
    same claims that the ―Buy American‖ movement did before it. The conclusion is
    that a local based diet, while raising many helpful and valid points, needs to
    be re-understood and rearticulated.

     

  2. anonymous says:

    This could have been a great article about the overreach of the federal government about how the USDA wants to regulate all food eaten in America, so a guy cooking for his house can get in trouble for not complying with the regulatory machine. Instead,  liberal buzzwords.

    • C'mon says:

      Yeah, but the critique against it was that killing bunnies is mean, not how-dare-you-not-buy-USDA-approved-meat.  His response had to be framed accordingly.

      • anonymous says:

        That’s not entirely true. While the real critique is “OH NOEZ THEY KILL CUTE ANIMALS” as you say, it has primarily been framed in terms of using non-USDA meat.
        See a past Daily Cal article on this:
        Elaina Marshalek, president of the BSC Board of Directors, said she had heard that the rabbits were killed outside the house, but that the BSC is still investigating whether any infractions occurred. Additionally, one of the main concerns is that meat that was not approved by the U.S. Department of Agriculture was used in Kingman Hall’s kitchen.
        “We have restaurant-grade kitchens comparable to the one in Chez Panisse, so we insist that only USDA-approved meat is used,” Marshalek said. “Now, we need to make sure the kitchen (in Kingman Hall) is up to code.”Gabe Schwartzman, a resident of Kingman who submitted an op-ed to The Daily Californian in defense of killing and cooking the rabbits, confirmed that the rabbits he and housemates cooked were not USDA-approved.Since no similar situation has ever come up at any of the BSC residences, Marshalek said they have no protocol set up to punish students who use non-USDA-approved meat in their kitchens. However, it is possible that Schwartzman may face removal from his position as a kitchen manager because of his actions.“We have clear protocol for Kitchen Managers who are required to keep kitchens up to code with health regulations,” Marshalek said in an email. “If there is a failure to follow this policy, then we will take action in line with our BSC policy.”

  3. ridge says:

    Why did you even have to eat rabbit Gabe?  Were you out of all other food?  No quinoa, lentils, seitan, etc.?  Come on.  You killed that rabbit because you like the taste of it.  Don’t pretend you killed it to be a hero to the “East Bay DIY urban agriculture movement.”

    • Lulz says:

      Dude, he’s not denying he liked the taste of it, he’s just explaining that if he’s going to eat meat he wants to ensure he can do it in as humane and sustainable a way as possible.

      Besides, excessive first-world quinoa consumption is hurting the Bolivians! http://www.nytimes.com/2011/03/20/world/americas/20bolivia.html?pagewanted=all

  4. Anonymous says:

    As a pet rabbit fan, I think the “locavore” movement using rabbits as food is just plain wrong. There are millions (estimated at 1.5 to 4 million) people who have rabbits as pets in the United States. In fact, there are several rabbit rescue organizations in the Bay Area including the House Rabbit Society which is headquartered near Oakland. Rabbits are the third most popular pet in the USA behind cats and dogs. This return to eating rabbits is not acceptable to the growing number of people who know these animals as pets. 

    The so called “meat” rabbits such as the New Zealand Whites, Californians, Harlequins, Satins and others are some of the best socialized pets.  Rabbits can be trained to be “therapy rabbits” just like dogs who visit long-term care facilities and hospices. We don’t eat cats and dogs in this country and rabbits are similar pets. Rabbits purr (softly grinding their teeth) when petted, can be littered box trained, clicker trained like dogs, enjoy affection, bond with their owners for life and other animals, and can be cage free in a bunny-proofed home.  We are omnivores, we can make a choice Not to eat rabbits just like we have with cats and dogs. Or is this China where 500 dogs were recently rescued headed for a meat producing facility.

    It is a fact rabbits carry zoonotic diseases that can be transmitted if not cooked properly.  So the concern about the lack of inspections by the USDA is warranted.  Since rabbits are butchered for meat anywhere from 7 weeks to 12 weeks old with many killed even before they are weaned at 8 weeks this is like consuming veal.  This dichotomy concerning the use of rabbits in our culture is grotesque and repulsive to the millions of us who know them as pets.

    • anonymous says:

      “Be fruitful and multiply; fill the earth and subdue it; have dominion over the fish of the sea, over the birds of the air, and over every living thing that moves on the earth” — Gen. 1:28
      “Everything that lives and moves will be food for you. Just as I gave you the green plants, I now give you everything.” — Genesis 9:3
      If people want to eat dog, God gave them permission to eat dog (unless they’re Jews, then they can’t due to rules specific only to them). If they want to eat rabbit, they can eat rabbit. Just because you think they’re cute doesn’t mean anybody else has to give a shit.

  5. Tigger Cohen says:

    “like”

  6. Pablo says:

    Very well articulated, Gabe. This is certainly an issue that is pertinent to all members of the human community. 

    We certainly live in a hypocritical country where slaughtering your own meat for you own nourishment and ecological-consciousness is greatly frowned upon, but purchasing non-local factory-farmed, abused and mutilated animals at your local Safeway is commonplace. This philosophy needs to be reversed if we’re going to sustain ourselves on this planet.