Pimp Your Pumpkin

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Pimp Your Pumpkin
See photos of Shikha’s creative pumpkin dish...





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Last weekend, I visited my childhood friend at UC Davis for three days of relaxation, debauchery and, of course, cooking. Like me, he is a cheesecake addict, and with the onset of fall, nothing sounded better than a fat slice of pumpkin cheesecake.

As we perused the aisles of Safeway (sadly, Davis doesn't enjoy the wonders of Berkeley Bowl), we came to the pumpkin section and faltered. The shelf was bare save for some canned candied yams that could never suffice. Where was the pumpkin?

It turns out that right now America is experiencing a pumpkin shortage. With a bad crop and few cans left over from last year, there simply is not enough pumpkin go around. The Washington Times reported that some farms even have reduced yields by 80 percent!

To avoid the pumpkin cheesecake deprivation that I experienced, there is one thing left to do: stock up on as much pumpkin as you can and make as many things with it as possible.

Initially, it seems that the only thing to do with pumpkin is bake a pie. While pie is undoubtedly delicious, it is merely a mote in the maelstrom of items that pumpkin can encompass. In fact, pumpkin is so versatile that after reading this column, you should never consider using your last can for a pie (unless you plan on creating a hazelnut crust and topping it with bourbon whipped cream).

First, the facts. Pumpkins are a fruit and rich in vitamin A-the night vision vitamin. There are more than a hundred types, but for cooking purposes, the sugar pie variety is most common. It is smaller, sweeter and has a smoother flesh. Most of the pumpkins we purchase today are grown in the Midwest, where the shortage is occurring.

Since buying any pumpkin puree seems unfeasible for the time being (unless you buy the pumpkin pie mix, which is just plain lazy), the next best alternative is to make your own. And it is easier than you think. Simply cut your pumpkin in half, discard the seeds (or save them for roasting and snacking on later) and chop into chunks. Roast them at 350 degrees for an hour or so until the pieces are super soft and then give them a whir in the blender: pumpkin puree at its finest.

Just make sure not to boil the pieces; pumpkin is 90 percent water, so boiling it would only cause the chunks to absorb more liquid than necessary. You will end up with a soggy, bland puree that will leave you yearning for store-bought cans.

With this untraditional pumpkin puree, it is time for some untraditional desserts that venture beyond the pumpkin pie. If you are unsure of what to concoct, local eateries offer apt starting points from which you can let your creativity rise. Beard Papa's on Telegraph has a seasonal pumpkin cream puff, and Millennium in San Francisco serves a saffron rice pudding with mango chutney.

I took a pumpkin out of the restaurant's patch and whipped up my own version of its dessert. The result was a moist spiced pumpkin rice pudding topped with maple syrup that tasted homey and delicious. In fact, it was easier than a pie because there was no hassle of making (or buying) a crust; I merely mixed, poured, baked and ate.

The quest for non-pie desserts does not end there. Doughnuts, flan, souffle and even tiramisu benefit from a dose of pumpkin and provide a satisfactory sweet ending. Large food giants have already taken advantage of this innovation with pumpkin variations of their products, such as Pumpkin Chex Mix and Trader Joe's pumpkin butter. Clearly, pie is no longer the trend.

Pumpkin can just as easily penetrate the savory category as well. The bakery where I work has a pumpkin cornmeal bread that makes me kick myself for not coming up with this combination beforehand. And my chef friend specially pan-fried some pumpkin and spinach ravioli when I dined at his restaurant last week.

As with desserts, savory pumpkin dishes allow you to let your imagination loose in the kitchen. Do not be afraid to experiment not only with the flesh, but with the pumpkin seeds as well. They are a good source of protein and iron and are a much healthier snack option than Pringles. Toasted seeds can go a long way, whether in granola or ground into pesto (try it and be amazed). Plus, you waste less food and make the most out of your pumpkin purchase.

Luckily, pumpkin offers a slew of options that lets you enjoy it in all aspects of cuisine. And while a pie is familiar and sounds simple to make, it is a surefire way to overlook the multitude of opportunities this fruit can lend itself to. With the pumpkin shortage, there is little use in subjecting all your hoarded cans towards one dish. Why settle for pie when you can have risotto, scones or cheesecake? That's what I thought.


Help Shikha raid Safeway for cans of pumpkin at shikha@dailycal.org.



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