Get Yourself a Meaty Conchiglie

Upon entering Adagia, the newest addition to the campus culinary scene, I was struck with the impression of coziness. The medium sized room at one end of Westminster House holds a number of sturdy, recycled-wood tables not far from a large fireplace, which created a warm ambience in contrast to the icy rain outside.

If the room feels like home, the food more closely resembles what you wish your mom would make. The gourmet selections we tried from the short lunch menu absolutely blew us away. My boyfriend and I, connoisseurs of the dining halls, also appreciate some of the finer dining around Berkeley whenever we can afford it. The quality of the meal we enjoyed, combined with the reasonable prices and proximity to campus, makes this restaurant a wonderful choice for a date, or just a bowl of soup after class. Either way, it's a gem.

We started our meal with a refreshing blood orange salad. The sharp, slightly bitter arugula and fennel contrasted nicely with the sweet, bright red oranges and toasty nuts. Crispy green endive added crunch. $7.25 does sound pricey for a salad, but the large portion almost makes it a meal.

The celery root soup with leeks and truffle oil exceeded all my expectations, with its warm creamy texture and large chunks of leek. The drizzle of smoothly rich truffle oil on top added earthy depth. The single serving ($3.25) was big enough for us to share, but if I went back, I'd order the larger bowl ($5.50). Other soup options include fish with saffron, tomato, grilled levain, and rouille, or braised lamb with barley and escarole.

For my entrée, I chose the baked ziti with pancetta, treviso and cauliflower ($8.50). The dish had a crusty baked top, under which nestled skinny tubular pasta in a cream sauce. Small chunks of cauliflower added texture and helped absorb the saltiness of the pancetta. Although the dish isn't huge, it's quite filling.

My boyfriend chose the seared cod sandwich with cabbage, celery, radish, and chopped egg ($9.25). The fish, delicate and flaky, fell apart easily in its nest of cabbage, with a tangy white sauce. The sandwich came with a large pile of garlicky fries that could use a little of the coarse salt neatly placed in pretty little ceramic bowls on the tables.

Of the four desserts on the menu, we chose the chocolate truffle thimble cake ($5.75) with espresso sauce and the caramel apple tart ($5.25). The dark, slightly bitter chocolate cake was a little dry, but the light espresso sauce helped restore moisture. However, the amazing apple tart made up for any disappointment. The soft, chewy apples were just sweet enough, and rested on flaky pastry, with a nearby pool of heavenly zabaglione sauce.

Throughout the meal, the wait staff was extremely friendly and helpful. Little touches, like clearing all the silverware after each course and wiping down the table before dessert, added to the experience. Adagia is currently only open for breakfast and lunch, but will soon open for dinner too. The restaurant serves beer and wine.

Although the menu may be somewhat pricey for cash-strapped students, it's worth the cost for the quality and atmosphere. For those who would like to try the restaurant but only have a few dollars to spend, I recommend going just for the soup.

Adagia is located on 2700 Bancroft Way. It is open every day from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. For more information, please call 647-2301.

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