Student models, along with the designers themselves, modeled the eight looks on a runway in the MCC. The first look was designed by student Benji Delgadillo, who modeled his own glamorously androgynous look — a bright floral blazer, metallic leggings and five-inch studded platform boots. Delgadillo discussed how he has struggled with the limitations of traditional office clothing when trying to express his femme identity at work. He described how he values his femme identity over his trans male identity and chose his heeled boots as a way to amplify that femininity while still presenting a tough appearance. Delgadillo explained that his two favorite items are the porcelain vessel necklaces he and his girlfriend have filled with each other’s sexual fluids and his binder, which he wears every day to flatten his breasts, allowing the expression of his gender fluid manhood.

Marisa Boyce, program coordinator at the Gender Equity Resource Center, described her look as “Professional Drag: Social Justice Style.” Boyce reflected afterwards on how those who identify as gender queer must choose one side of the gender binary in professional environments. She explained that because of this, she feels like she is always in drag to some extent at work but that a masculine presentation allows her to be taken seriously. She was able to find a compromise by incorporating loud, bright colors into her look, composed of an aqua button-down, black jeans and black high-tops, so she doesn’t have to “sell out her individuality when stepping into the machine.”

Dee Mauricio, an intern at the MCC, wanted to explore how particular clothing items are gendered and racialized. For her look, she chose traditionally masculine pieces, such as brogues, a bow-tie and a military-style jacket, to challenge conceptions of gender. She was also interested in how certain jewelry on a brown body tends to have the connotations of “ghetto” or “hoodrat.” By putting large gold hoops on her model, who identifies as mixed race, Mauricio was able to question racial stereotypes and reflect on how hoops mean different things on different bodies.
The project included a photo campaign in which participants discussed how they use personal style. One participant, Dea Borup, explained that, as a trans woman, she proudly wears a bra as an act of self-love and personal triumph. One of her most treasured items is a pair of rose-colored Betsey Johnson heels she received as a peace offering from her parents. She described it as the moment when she felt her perseverance had succeeded and her parents acknowledged her trans idenvvtity. Valerie Jameson discussed her choice of an embroidered Mexican shirt, explaining that this kind of clothing is frequently appropriated and commodified by larger companies for mass consumption, so she tries to give agency to women in the community by buying local handmade items.

“I use fashion to write my soul into existence,” explained Diamond Raymond, one of the other designers featured in the show. This sentiment is passionately felt throughout the show, as the designers demonstrate how fashion can be used as a powerful and creative way of expressing emotions, stories and experiences.

Contact Meadhbh McGrath at mmcgrath@dailycal.org.

Correction(s):
A previous version of this article incorrectly identified a model as white. In fact, the model identifies as mixed race.

The post Threaded Souls Project presents fashion show appeared first on The Daily Californian.

Designers Madeline Abshier and Rajitha Kurmana were both inspired by Mark Manders’s “Silent Head on a Concrete Floor,” a sculpture depicting vertical slices of a human head between wooden slats. The work reminded Abshier of the “noise” of the fashion industry, and she attempted to capture a “stillness” with her black corseted floor-length gown, featuring a shoulder detail of silver spoons, added to represent the idea of “taking too much in.”

Kurmana’s design was more visually inspired by Manders’ piece. Her model wore a black bubble-hem satin gown, designed to embody the sharp angular gradation and depth of the artwork. Kurmana chose to place pleats on only one side of the gown to reflect the imbalance of Manders’ work.

Other designers took their inspiration from the concept of the artwork, such as Mayela Rodriguez, whose design was based on Robert Morris’ “Box with the Sound of Its Own Making.” Like Morris, Rodriguez is interested in creation. In her design, she covered a slip dress with words describing the making of a dress in the same way that the sounds of Morris’ piece express the making of a box. The slip was then worn inside-out by the model, with minimal makeup and hairstyling. The sides of the slip were lined with safety pins, emphasizing the incompleteness and construction of the design.

Designer Jennifer Huang joined her model on the walkway, both models barefoot in a pair of interlocking dresses, Huang’s hand connected to her model’s shoulder. Huang’s design was inspired by Tehching Hsieh’s “One Year Performance (Cage Piece),” a performance artwork in which the artist spent a year inside a cage without reading, listening to the radio or watching television. Huang also recalled one of the artist’s other works, “Art/Life: One Year Performance (Rope Piece),” in which Hsieh spent a year tied to performance artist Linda Montano, the two unable to touch each other. Huang was interested in expressing the sense of imprisonment in both works, and her piece made a striking impact as she and her model shuffled uncomfortably down the walkways.

The most impressive piece was the elaborate design by Yang Qu, inspired by Christian Marclay’s “White Rorschach Door (The Electric Chair).” Qu was moved by the corporeality of Marclay’s work, in which the artist makes a powerful statement about capital punishment, evoking the notion of silence as enforcement. Qu explained that she is also fascinated by the Black Death, which similarly influenced her design, focusing on the oppressive and silencing fear of death. Her design consisted of a stunning tulle and chantelle gown, a vinyl cage resting over the skirt and an exquisitely crafted bird mask, covered in ornate peach roses that extended onto the shoulders and scattered around the train of the gown. Qu explained that the flowers were inspired by the nursery rhyme “Ring Around the Rosie,” a song that has been associated with the Black Death.

Lucinda Barnes, chief curator of the BAM/PFA, described in her opening speech for the show how, in the exhibition, silence is emphasized to such an extent that it becomes an unavoidable presence, an invitation to think and reflect. Throughout the fashion show, this presence was intensely felt, making for a compelling exploration of silence in all its forms.

Contact Meadhbh McGrath at mmcgrath@dailycal.org.

The post ‘Silence’ found in ‘Echo’ show appeared first on The Daily Californian.

Thirty-four years later, the group has grown to become an international network of orders, consisting mainly of nonprofit organizations that raise money for AIDS and LGBT-related causes. The group also promotes safer sex through its Play Fair campaign. The Sisters refer to themselves as an order of queer nuns and are involved in promoting respect for diversity and marginalized groups through community service and outreach. The organization uses humor, drag and religious imagery to satirize gender and religious issues. The process of joining an order resembles the steps for joining a Catholic order of nuns, and members choose sexually suggestive and absurd names when they are inducted, such as Sister Anita Blowjob, Sister GladAss of the Joyous Reserectum and Sister Hysterectoria.

In addition to their educational and fundraising campaigns, the Sisters host annual events on Easter weekend. Easter with the Sisters involves not only the famed daylong Dolores Park celebration on Easter Sunday but also a Dolores Trash Exorcism on Saturday to clean up the park and a weekend-long Zombie Christ Haunted House, at which volunteers dress up as conservative characters and carry signs such as “God Hates Bags!,” mimicking the Westboro Baptist Church.

The Sisters have described themselves as “sacred clowns,” and the theme of this year’s celebration was “Under the Big Top.” Hundreds gathered to “make Mary” with the Sisters at the alternative family-friendly event. The celebrations began with an Easter egg hunt for children, opened by the Easter Bunny and one of the senior Sisters. The traditional egg hunt was crowded with local children frantically scrambling to collect eggs containing toys and sweets. Following the children’s festivities, contestants gathered to compete in the Easter Bonnet Contest, flaunting an array of incredible headpieces. The marvelously creative bonnets featured butterflies, birds nests, Easter eggs and vibrant floral arrangements, adding a rainbow of color to the otherwise gray day.

The crowd made a fantastic effort with its outfits for this year’s event, and the park was filled with brilliantly clever costumes. Joining the Sisters in their elaborate face paint, robes and wimples embellished with sequins and baubles were several fabulously flamboyant popes, cheeky clowns, the Queen of England, punk bunnies and a feminist Jesus who cried out, “Be your own miracle — don’t wait for some man to do it for you.”

Unfortunately, the event was cut short when the audience was caught in the rain before the Sisters had a chance to anoint this year’s Hunky Jesus with a crown of thorns. The crowd, including a number of scantily-clad, red wine-soaked Jesus look-alikes and one hopeful with an electrified guitar cross, ran for cover. Unfazed by the rain, many resilient attendees and Sisters stayed in the park to drink and dance. One particularly upbeat group of men divested themselves of their wet trousers to enjoy the rest of the day in brightly colored briefs.

The Sisters have confirmed that the infamous Hunky Jesus contest, which has previously featured crucifixes made entirely of dildos, will be rescheduled to take place later this month.

Contact Meadhbh McGrath at mmcgrath@dailycal.org.

The post Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence celebrate at Dolores Park appeared first on The Daily Californian.

Acne

Givenchy
Nontraditional Prints
Traditional prints were given a new look on spring’s runways. Nautical stripes were brought up to date at Acne, while Balenciaga and Christopher Kane offered digital manipulations of florals. As is his signature, Richard Tisci covered his spring collection for Givenchy with religious imagery, featuring shirts printed with the fragmented face of the Madonna.
Floral sweatshirt, $59.90, Zara

Bold stripe t-shirt, $89.38, Acne

Orange print shorts, $160, Topman Design

Mother Mary tank top, $28, Urban Outfitters

Guadalupe allover tee, $32, Urban Outfitters

Alexander Wang

Dolce and Gabbana

Fifties American Sportswear
Many designers looked to the sporting arena for inspiration this season, and the influence of ’50s American sportswear was prominent on spring’s runways, from the oversized baseball shirts at Alexander Wang to the baseball bomber jackets at Versace, Givenchy and Dolce & Gabbana. Baseball jackets are a key trend for spring, and there is no lack of affordable options. As this is a vintage-inspired look, it’s worth searching through vintage clothing stores to look for the real deal, but there were also modern alterations to the classic style this season. For spring, the baseball jacket is revamped in metallics or rich satin. The silhouette can vary from the structured styles seen at Versace to puffy shapes to more minimalist cuts.
Wool jacket, $155, American Apparel

Satin Charmeuse jacket in Burgundy, $45, American Apparel

Reclaimed Vintage jacket, $84.78, Asos

Raf Simons

Raf Simons

Statement Trainers
Statement trainers are the top footwear trend for spring 2013. Raf Simons contrasted trainers with formal wear for his spring show, pairing them with both suits and shorts and demonstrating how they can be adapted for everyday casual wear or with smarter outfits. The statement trainer was prominent again on the fall/winter runways, so it’s a trend worth investing in for next season, too. Simons has designed a range for Adidas, which will be coming out in July, but for now, Nike has a great selection to get you out of your Sperrys.
New Balance 574, $74.99, Nike (in black, purple and orange)

Free Run + 3, $99.99, Nike (in black and reflective grey)

DVN

CDG

Kenzo

Alternative Camo
Love it or hate it, camouflage print is huge this spring — but not as we’re used to it. Dries van Noten has taken the most traditionally macho print and given it a makeover, offering digitally reworked prints, sometimes transforming it into an almost leopard print. This nontraditional camo lends itself to a more elegant masculinity. Layering camouflage prints with chiffon shirts and overprinted lace, the collection was a triumphant revamping of a tired trend. Comme des Garcons features faded versions of the camo print, while Kenzo offers more colorful renderings. Alternative camo can be worn in bold statement pieces or applied as a neutral base, as it can be adapted to work with pretty much anything.
Camo Military Chino, $59, Urban Outfiterrs

Herschel Supply Co. Backpack, $55, Urban Outfitters

Printed Shorts, $90, Keenkee

Printed Polo Shirt, $100, Keenkee

Contact Meadhbh McGrath at mmcgrath@dailycal.org.

The post Your guide to Spring Menswear 2013 appeared first on The Daily Californian.

(Givenchy, Balenciaga)
Ruffles and Frills:
At Nicolas Ghesquiere’s final collection for Balenciaga this spring, architectural ruffles were everywhere from hemlines to sleeves. His structural designs in black, white and gray countered any audience’s stereotypical conceptions of frills as twee and girly. Although such dramatic frills may not be manageable for everyday, you can ease into the trend with sleek ruffles on blouses and skirts.

Ruffle Hem Skirt, $56, Topshop

Swing Shirt with Ruffle Sleeves, $64.43, ASOS.com

(Peter Pilotto)
Power dressing with an Eastern influence:
Although Asian prints and patterns have long been an influence on fashion, we’ve never seen them like this before. Digital prints and power dressing at Prada, Emilio Pucci and Peter Pilotto gave Eastern blossoms a modern upgrade. Rich, vibrant hues and delicate floral prints were thrown together and worn all at once for a high-impact look. Oriental prints will be popular this spring, with Eastern blossoms covering everything from bomber jackets to pyjama style pants to oversized clutch bags.

Oriental print chiffon blouse, $59.90, Zara

(Giambattista Valli, Valentino)
Delicate Whites:
After a cold winter full of black, black and more black, spring is all about fresh white. Delicate whites usually suggest a more old-fashioned look, but they were revamped this season at Valentino, Giambattista Valli and Vera Wang. This clean, sophisticated look is perfect for spring in Berkeley as the soft lace can offer a breathable option on hot days, or provide delicate texture when combined with warmer items on chilly days.

For Love & Lemons Sheer Lace Dress, $142, Wasteland

Stripe Lace Tee, $38, American Apparel

(Gucci, Louis Vuitton)

Caged In:
From the cage designs at Gucci to the sparkling webs of Christian Dior and the mod geometric designs at Louis Vuitton, this sultry trend took a variety of forms on spring’s runways. Alternating between peek-a-boo fishnet and more modest finishes, this versatile look can be adapted for daytime or going out.

Caged Crop Top, $30, Nasty Gal

Fuzzy Square Print Shirt, $70, Topshop

(Hermes, Carolina Herrera, Gucci)
Bold Colors:
Monochromatic dressing goes full-spectrum this season. Bold colors dominated the runway at Gucci, and head-to-toe brights made an impression at Stella McCartney, Hermes and Carolina Herrera. This eye-catching look makes a powerful statement, so boldly embrace it with these radiant hues:

Scuba High Neck Skater Dress, $76, Topshop

Dress with Cape Sleeve, $89.90, Zara

Tulip Hem Shorts, $17.80, Forever 21

Contact Meadhbh McGrath at mmcgrath@dailycal.org.

The post Spring Trends 2013: Your guide to fashion on a college budget appeared first on The Daily Californian.

Last week, the online retailer Storenvy opened its first-ever pop-up shop at the up-and-coming Crocker Galleria, hosted by San Francisco-based startup Storefront. Storenvy was founded in San Francisco in 2008 as a social marketplace in which merchants could set up online stores for free and promote their products through Twitter, Facebook and the website itself. Co-owner Jon Crawford told the Silicon Prairie that the company aims to become “the Tumblr of e-commerce,” and last September, the website reached 20,000 online shops, selling everything from clothing and handmade items to artwork and photography.

Storenvy’s pop-up shop features four local designers: TopShelf Boutique, After Eleven, Animal Instincts and Embergrass Jewelry. San Francisco’s first-ever “fashion truck,” TopShelf Boutique, offers a range of affordable contemporary and vintage items, including a variety of cheerful vintage heels. After Eleven Apparel, based in Walnut Creek, sells graphic tees and pullovers inspired by music and surfing culture. The pop-up shop also features a children’s clothing brand, Animal Instincts, whose designs are based on original pencil sketches by the San Franciscan owner.

Embergrass Jewelry stood out as the most impressive of the designers. The San Francisco-based British artist Claire Smith creates all of the jewelry herself, primarily from copper — a more contemporary choice than gold or silver. The range includes simple designs for everyday wear as well as bold statement pieces. The industrial style and geometric shape of her copper shard earrings would work strikingly with a delicate white dress or monochrome jumpsuit, two of this season’s major trends.

Contact Meadhbh McGrath at mmcgrath@dailycal.org.

The post Storenvy shop pops up in SF appeared first on The Daily Californian.