Mai Truong/Staff

When the question “What should we eat?” crops up, my first response is usually izakaya.

Some people refer to izakaya food as Japanese tapas, but I think of tapas as “Spanish izakaya” because izakaya includes a wider range of dishes, from the small appetizers that serve as drinking snacks to the filling rice and noodle dishes to be had after drinks. Izakaya plates are also designed for sharing, which sets the perfect atmosphere for get-togethers, and the restaurants should be casual and affordable, with more emphasis on taste than artistry of the food. In the Berkeley izakaya scene, not only does Kiraku fit that bill, but it is also conveniently located on Telegraph Avenue to cater to the student community on the Southside.

In an izakaya, it’s a good idea to start off with something cold and adventurous, knowing that you can always return to the warmth of fried chicken and potstickers if all else fails. Although the fermented firefly squid, with its strong sea flavor, will not appeal to everyone (it wasn’t for me), “spicy” jellyfish and “spicy” boiled baby octopus (iidako), which looks fiery red, are not spicy at all but mildly sweet, springy and fun to eat.

Some of the starters are best enjoyed as nibblers throughout the meal. On one end of the spectrum, there’s takowasabi — raw octopus chopped and marinated in a light wasabi sauce, which appears slimy but tastes clean — to refresh your palate between heavier plates, like barbecued spare ribs and grilled beef tongue. And on the other end, there’s renkon chips, thinly sliced lotus root deep fried and sprinkled with celery salt, a light snack to be enjoyed while waiting for the seared albacore tataki, which is a whole different kind of delight dressed in ponzu and onion sauce.

The fried dishes at Kiraku are always sure bets. Corn tempura with green tea salt and kisu tempura (whiting fish) with umeboshi salt is airy enough to make you forget that it is deep-fried. Karaage (fried chicken) comes piping hot, and deep fried rock shrimp with spicy mayo is both visually inviting and texturally addicting, as the shrimp is still moist and firm inside the light, crispy batter.

After indulging in tempura, I always choose the omelet salad to give myself the illusion of healthy eating — shredded cabbage with sauteed pork belly blanketed with a thin omelet, topped with katsuobushi (bonito flakes), Japanese mayo and soy sauce. The salad looks big and fluffy but not too filling, and it leaves enough room for an “after-sake” (shushoku) dish.

Actually, by the time you get to the after-sake, you’re typically a bit inebriated (izakaya are Japanese drinking establishments, and Kiraku has more than 40 choices of sake, shochu, chuhai and beer). That means your palates are either dulled or totally dead, so the shushoku just has to be filling. Kiraku’s shushoku does just that. Literally. While filling, the oyako don, rice with simmered chicken and onion omelet, was a little too mushy, and the yaki udon did not leave a strong impression despite featuring many flavors — small bits of octopus, hearty noodle and salty katsuobushi with a sweet basil pesto twist.

What the shushoku lacked, the spare ribs made up for perfectly with tender, fall-of-the-bone meat in a savory orange marmalade barbecue sauce. It’s a dish that I can always recommend, for it is not an acquired taste and would please every palate (except vegetarian ones) — just like Kiraku is the perfect middle-range restaurant that everyone would like, regardless of your preference to stay in the pork-belly zone or venture into the fermented-squid zone.

And if, by some miracle, you still have room after the shushoku (there’s always room for ice cream, right?), there’s grapefruit yogurt with fresh blueberries and green grapes. The tartness woke me right up from my food coma, a bright note that kept me smiling all the way home in the crisp air of the Berkeley night.

Kiraku is located at 2566 Telegraph Ave. Call 510-848-2758 to make reservations.

Mai Truong is the editor of Eating Berkeley. Contact her at mtruong@dailycal.org.

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Sarachan has submitted an application to the city to build an organic ice cream shop called Dream, which will be housed inside of Rasputin. The store, which would have a takeout window opening out into Channing Way, would sit directly across the intersection from existing ice cream and cookie sandwich shop C.R.E.A.M.

Luckily, on May 21, Berkeley City Council decided to postpone approving Sarachan’s application and instead hold a public hearing to receive public input on the matter. The decision came after C.R.E.A.M. put in an appeal, impeding Sarachan’s grand plans. The council made the right decision.

“It is a very confrontational place,” said Councilmember Kriss Worthington at the meeting. “If it was in another place, there might not have been issues.”

Sarachan set himself up for confrontation by putting in an application to build his shop across from C.R.E.A.M. Accordingly, C.R.E.A.M. raised a number of concerns with Sarachan’s application, among them that the shop would decrease ADA accessibility and increase the amount of traffic on Channing Way as a result of a takeout window being installed for Dream. Though the Zoning Adjustments Board ultimately found no indication that these concerns would come to fruition, the board only takes into account that a food establishment will be built when making its decision — not the specific kind of food that is to be sold.

In fact, just west of Telegraph, down Durant Avenue, Michelle’s Yogurt and Sweets advertises ice cream sandwiches for $1.50 — $0.50 less than C.R.E.A.M.’s sandwiches. Just across the street from Michelle’s, Yogurt Park advertises daily frozen yogurt flavors with a takeout window open late into the night. Another block over on Telegraph and Bancroft Way, Yogurtland has a variety of flavors and toppings available at affordable prices based on weight. And, two blocks down on Telegraph and Channing, Honeyberry boasts tart frozen yogurt flavors, tapioca drinks and baked goods.

Which is all to say that another ice cream shop in such close proximity to C.R.E.A.M. and its cohorts isn’t just ridiculous — it has little to no chance of succeeding.

“Calling your ice cream takeout ‘Dream’ is very provocative,” said Councilmember Susan Wengraf at the meeting. “You could have named it anything. The motivation for doing that is questionable.”

Provocative, indeed — instead of going for an ordinary name like Sarachan’s Ice Cream or even Rasputin Ice Cream, Sarachan has purposefully chosen a name that rhymes with the one his shop will sit right across from. Competition is one thing, but having a business selling almost the exact same thing with a rhyming name? That’s just too much. Like Wengraf, we also have to wonder what Sarachan is thinking.

At the meeting, Sarachan argued that C.R.E.A.M. has a monopoly on the ice cream business in Berkeley and that he needs the ice cream shop because Rasputin is ailing. Yet by building an almost identical business across the street, Sarachan will encounter the very problem he is trying to escape — another ailing business harmed by the overcompetition of identical stores in close proximity. Why not build the ice cream business in the Blondie’s Pizza building, which Sarachan also owns? Why not build it a block down from Rasputin on his vacant lot at Telegraph Avenue and Haste Street, which has sat empty since a hotel fire in 1990?

“I fear the impact it will have on existing business … (it) does not meet purposes of the district,” said Councilmember Jesse Arreguin at the meeting.

Arreguin’s apprehension rings true. Though the city shouldn’t block Sarachan’s final application, it should make him rethink his business location and name; Southside already has enough takeout ice cream shops. Furthermore, by doing nothing with his existing vacant lot, Sarachan has failed to prove himself to the city. If this new ice cream business fails, what’s to say we won’t have another vacant storefront for another 20 years?

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Though recent efforts show the council is doing a good job at trying to improve Telegraph’s atmosphere, simply altering the nature of the city’s quotas is not the right the solution to the problem — especially if local business owners and managers do not support the change. The city needs to work harder at being more inclusive and making these important stakeholders a bigger part of the process.

The council item, which was introduced at Tuesday’s meeting, proposes relaxing a quota that limits the amount of certain businesses — like restaurants and barber shops — that can operate in the Telegraph commercial area. If implemented, the proposal would relax the quota for the next three years.

Currently, the purpose of the quota is to prevent too many of the same type of business from moving in and creating an unhealthy amount of competition. The quota also ensures a wide variety of dining and shopping choices for students and yearlong residents who live in the area.

If the city decides to relax the quota, it must communicate with Telegraph’s existing mom-and-pop shops on the effect of the change on their businesses. Existing restaurants, such as Pappy’s Grill and Sports Bar and Gypsy’s Trattoria Italiana, expressed concerns at the council meeting that relaxing the quota would allow new restaurants to flood an already competitive environment.

The council also needs to ensure it solicits the input of local businesses and groups, such as the Telegraph Business Improvement District, on how to better improve the district through alternative solutions. This communication should extend beyond council meetings, where time to discuss the issue is often limited. The council should host open forum meetings to hear resident and business input.

The city is doing the right thing by making moves to improve the bleak atmosphere of Telegraph, which has seen rapid business turnover and is currently host to two vacant lots at the intersection of Telegraph and Haste Street, where any substantial rebuilding still seems far off.

The council’s consideration of the item is also in line with its long-debated Southside Plan, which was passed in September 2011 and aims to improve the area’s business environment through changes in zoning guidelines and the implementation of additional affordable housing. It is uplifting to see the city paying the necessary attention to Telegraph’s future, but zoning quotas are probably not the answer, and certainly not the only one.

Though the city has decided not to take action on the item for now, the plan’s introduction sets a precedent for a summer that could see improvements to make Telegraph more livable and safe for students, including the move to a 24/7 district and better lighting on the street.

Contact the opinion desk at opinion@dailycal.org.

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The idea of a 24/7 Telegraph, which the city has discussed since 2007, has been particularly advocated recently by the Telegraph Business Improvement District. Item One on the council’s meeting agenda Tuesday makes zoning amendments to commercial operating hours on Telegraph, allowing for 24/7 business operations north of Dwight Way, with special provisions for certain establishments, like those that sell alcohol. It was passed Tuesday night as part of the council’s consent calendar.

The item, which had a public hearing back in November, generated some concern from residents regarding noise. The police department had also expressed concern that later operating hours may result in “increased negative behavior on Telegraph Avenue.”

Jaehak Yu is a news editor. Contact him at jyu@dailycal.org.

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Action on the plan, a list of short-term improvements for Telegraph Avenue proposed by Councilmember Kriss Worthington, has been held over for the city council’s meeting on April 30th for further discussion.

The plan incorporates suggestions from groups like the Telegraph Livability Coalition. Improvements in the plan include outdoor merchandise tables for retail stores, increasing the visibility of parking and a monthly music festival. Worthington’s proposal estimates investment costs of about $50,500.

Gautham Thomas covers city government. Contact him at gthomas@dailycal.org.

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Gracie Malley/Senior Staff

On Monday, the Berkeley Chamber of Commerce welcomed the public to a meeting on the future of Telegraph and about transforming the area into a prominent commercial Bay Area destination.

The meeting, led by the Berkeley Chamber of Commerce’s Government Affairs Committee, served as a forum to discuss various plans to lure more businesses into the iconic Berkeley street. Attendees, among whom were members of the Chamber, city officials and Berkeley residents, remained optimistic about revitalizing Telegraph as a commercial space.

“Telegraph used to be a place where people would go 30 years ago, so it’s pretty exciting to talk about ways to turn the area into an actual destination,” said Polly Armstrong, CEO of the Berkeley Chamber of Commerce.

One of the focal points of the meeting was the discussion of Councilmember Kriss Worthington’s short-term, immediate proposals to be voted on Tuesday at the City Council meeting.

Worthington, who represents the Telegraph area, has put forth a “Telegraph ACTION Plan” for improvements slated for this year and the next. Costs from his office are estimated to be around $50,500 according to his agenda item.

Worthington’s proposed improvements include programs to permit retail tables, which would allow a few retail stores to put merchandise tables in front of their stores. Other ideas include drafting a design of a transit center on Dwight Way to bring in more people from around the Bay Area.

He also proposed to improve lighting, restore murals, enhance pedestrian safety, build more parking and make the street more accessible.

“With all of this construction going on, we don’t want businesses to suffer in the short term,” Worthington said. “It is essential to increase access to parking, since I see people driving around the place without actually going to the stores and restaurants all the time.”

Other long-term considerations were discussed at the meeting, like plans to build a museum that celebrates the unique history of People’s Park, to transform the district into a center for music and arts, and to create office spaces for student entrepreneurs.

Mayor Tom Bates, for instance, plans to overhaul an existing law that forbids the city from using the office space located above retail stores in the area.

“I’m sure there was a good reason for the law at the time, but this makes no sense today at all, since the area’s close proximity to the university makes it an ideal place for startups,” Bates said.

By the meeting’s end, many were optimistic that meaningful action would happen with regard to developing the area.

“This meeting was great because I could just sense the excitement and optimism among everyone, and I’m truly hopeful that Telegraph can become a great Bay Area destination,” said Armstrong.

Contact Jason Liu at jliu@dailycal.org.

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Marcus Gedai/Staff

UC Berkeley is on the rise in all the right places. Last month, Cal Bears everywhere learned that their alma mater placed in the top five universities worldwide for academic reputation (beating Stanford). Last week, three of UC Berkeley’s graduate programs (English, history and sociology) were crowned by US News & World Report as the best in the country. Today, on the heels of March Madness, Bleacher Report announced that Berkeley’s student population is one of the hottest in the country.

But is this shocking news? After all, Cal, situated in sunny California with a view of the Golden Gate Bridge, just seems to be a natural habitat for some of the smartest and most attractive student body. Here is a short list for why we’re sexy and we know it.

Endurance. Years spent trekking the rugged campus hills every single day transform the Golden Bear’s glutes into a work of art. And why is CKC dining hall’s breakfast fit for champions?  Try hiking four blocks from Clark Kerr uphill to make your 8 a.m. class.

Agility. Dodging the stray dogs on Southside and crossing trash-laden Telegraph has led to fancy footwork. And Cal student’s calves are basically the product of crowd maneuvering in flier-infested Lower Sproul.

Speed. Berkeley’s 10-minute extension period between classes is the fundamental reason why Dwinelle-to-Tolman migrants can practically teleport.

Strength. What goes into a Cal student’s backpack? A laptop, a notebook and a few pens. But don’t forget how in every class there’s enough required reading to choke a whale.

Flexibility. Four four-unit classes, a couple of decals, half a dozen clubs, a job or two and throw in a social life. At Cal, we make contortion look painless.

Oh, and Stanford — is it on the list? Nope.

Contact Alex Mabanta at amabanta@dailycal.org.

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Are there gender differences in giving? If you ask a woman student next to you for some help on a test, will they give it to you? Do they give more to the homeless people on Telegraph?

A recent study conducted by Berkeley economists suggests that yes, in those situations, they would be more likely to give.

When it comes to asking for supplies, we would suggest from anecdotal experience that women would be more prepared and thus more likely give you their extra blue book or pencil. And the pencils are often kept in those cute little tins. Organization!

But the role of social pressure is an important caveat. When asking a woman in person — such as on Telegraph or other streets of Berkeley — that social pressure is often the push that gives women the greater likelihood to give, though we doubt being shoved and yelled at like we sometimes are on Telegraph makes any difference between the genders. Oh, Telegraph, you’re so lovely to walk down.

According to the study, this is because women are more likely on the margin of giving. We take this to mean that men are rather unaffected by face-to-face contact when it comes to charity — either they’re going to give or they’re not. No personal appeals necessary. Show him a starving kid and that man will stubbornly upturn his nose and hold out his hand saying, “Sorry, heh, social pressure doesn’t work on my kind.” Then he’ll animorph into a snake and slither up his drainpipe. Science!

On the other hand, when women were given the option to avoid the social pressure, they avoided it with greater frequency than men.

So under social pressure, women give more; with the ability to avoid it, men give more.

There is more research to be done, however — the article mentions the many contradictory findings of other studies on the generosity of men and women. We look forward to hearing more about the likelihood of people turning into animo — er, giving to charity.

Contact Erik Swan at eswan@dailycal.org

Image source: Tax Credits under Creative Commons.

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Brenna Alexander/File

City Councilmember Kriss Worthington has asked the city to assist the owners of the food trucks previously located in front of Sproul Plaza in finding new locations.

At its March 19 meeting, Berkeley City Council will consider a referral submitted by Worthington requesting the city manager to assist Michael Koh, Ann Vu and Jack Huynh, the respective owners of Dojo Dog, Healthy Heavenly Foods and Kettle Corn Star, in relocating their businesses. The move comes more than two months after the vendors were asked to vacate the property in December due to Lower Sproul construction.

Mayor Tom Bates has also called upon the city manager to look into finding alternative locations for the vendors.

Worthington characterized the vendors’ notice to vacate two days before the beginning of construction as “offensive and outrageous.” Usually, authorized businesses are notified one to two months in advance if they need to vacate for construction purposes, he said.

“This construction project has been planned for five years,” Worthington said. “It’s not like some emergency that just sprung up.”

Worthington said he hopes his referral will prompt the city to consider alternatives for the vendors more seriously in the future.

The owners, who invested in the trucks last year under a four-year permit program with the city, are reaching out for either alternative locations or compensation from the city because they cannot afford to keep paying the trucks’ parking permits or insurance.

The vendors say Worthington’s action may bring them the help they need to earn their livelihoods again.

“It’s kind of like when you’re drowning and someone throws you a rope,” said Koh, a UC Berkeley senior. “The city was pretty much going to avoid us. Because of (Worthington), they will start to reinvestigate and put in some serious effort.”

Vu has also been trying to reach out to UC Berkeley students on Lower Sproul for help in further gaining attention from the city.

“I went there last Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday to reach out to students,” Vu said. “The people support me.”

The vendors said their previous locations near Lower Sproul were ideal but that they are willing to operate anywhere the city allows as long as they will receive business.

Worthington said he hopes the city can come to an agreement with the vendors in the next two weeks, before Berkeley City Council is set to discuss the request.

Aly Neumann covers city government. Contact her at aneumann@dailycal.org and follow her on Twitter @AlyNeumann.

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So you are walking to class through Telegraph, eating an ice cream sandwich from CREAM, listening to music on your earbuds, texting your mom, wondering if there will be a pop quiz today and rewording your newest thesis in your head.

Some students in front of you cross the street and you follow behind them, when all of a sudden, you are staring down the front of a Jetta honking its horn and coming 35 mph straight at you. Thank God you jumped back onto the curb. According to data from the The Seattle Times, you could have just become one of the 60,000 people that are in vehicle/pedestrian accidents every year in the United States — or worse, one of the 4,000 fatalities that occur from such accidents.

We’ve seen these types of scary incidents happen in Berkeley before. Last semester, a student was hit crossing the street on the north side of campus.

We all do it, walking while distracted. And apparently we do it a lot.

A survey from a research center at the University of Washington found, after surveying 20 of the busiest intersections in Seattle, that one in three people are distracted by their cellphones while walking. We know that texting while walking takes your mind off of what is around you and instead focuses your attention on what is in your hands, which is sometimes a good thing with midterms right around the corner.

Walking while distracted is dangerous, especially with more and more Berkeley kids on their new iPhones. After watching this video, the Clog’s worried that we’ll see more students falling into the Upper Sproul fountain.

And the Consumer Product Safety Commission backs up our concern with data that say that more than 1,000 people end up in the emergency room every year due to accidents from walking and texting.

We’ve heard that some cities have started issuing tickets to distracted walkers. With the cost of college already on the rise, we’re against anything that will cost us more. But we would rather not have students start get hit by cars a lot … or at all.

So please remember to look both ways, pay attention to signals, cross at the appropriate time and don’t just follow the people in front of you.

It’s one thing to be a graduate — it’s another to be a statistic.

Image source: pborenstein under Creative Commons 

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