Although it’s already time to turn our gaze towards London Fashion Week, the press still isn’t ready to forget the abundance of innovative ideas and outstanding collections seen this season in New York. Overall, the runways continued the ‘90s revivalism and sporty casualization of fashion, which in its most extreme strain has won meme-worthy attention as “normcore.” Joggers and Birkenstock-esque shoes were popular pieces. Most notably, the all-white look has taken the runway by storm, reinterpreted in practically every show this season.
Beyond the world of trends, several designers showed their strongest shows in years. If you haven’t had the chance to look through the endless slides of runway shows, The Daily Californian has a recap for you of five of the most acclaimed shows this season.
Taking New York’s reputation for sportswear quite literally, Alexander Wang crafted an entire Spring/Summer collection inspired by his favorite sneakers. The influence could be seen in the smallest details, from high heels to satchels. Popping colorways drew from classic Jordans, perforated green-white tops channeled Adidas’ Stan Smiths (all the rage) and Tron-esque neon body-con dresses recalled Nike Flyknits.
From slinking alien tin men to Frankenstein jocks, one can always expect zaniness from New York’s preppy mad man, Thom Browne. The designer delighted the critics this season with a collection that demonstrated a surprising level of restraint. The usual cropped silhouettes were still there and Browne skipped the theatrical designs to focus more on stunning, witty prints, from a psychedelic butterfly plaid to a sly ribbon across a glossy coat. One could imagine wearing some of these pieces right off the runway, which is a new concept coming from Browne.
Always hoping to bring fun back into the world of fashion, the Cal-alum creative duo Humberto Leon and Carol Lim skipped the catwalk in lieu of a one-act play, the result of a collaboration with Spike Jonze and Jonah Hill. Familiar faces such as Rashida Jones and Elle Fanning populated the stage donning motifs such as a prominent salmon orange, moto jacket zips, and sporty sweaters. While Opening Ceremony’s “show” stole the spotlight from the clothes themselves, it certainly drew the attention of the press.
Having just won the CFDA Vogue Fund Award, Public School continued to soak in their new-found acclaim with their first ever women’s collection this week, demonstrating a luxurious take on edgy sportswear. One could find all the of-the-moment casual trends — lots of printed bomber jackets, loose pant silhouettes, and joggers. However, the collection told a vivid visual narrative, in which clean black-and-white lines were soon lost in visual chaos, represented by pops of a deep electric blue and a print echoing the static of a television.
With sunlight seeping in, the roof-top warehouse setting for The Row’s collection was a perfect backdrop for the glowing elegance of the Olsens’ series of raw silk dresses. While their name evokes the tradition of Savile Row tailoring, this season the twins looked towards the East as their muse — not only for their rich fabric of choice but also for their gorgeous, flowing drapes. Forsaking color for mostly monochromatic fits, the weaves, cuts and visual movement of each kimono-esque piece was compelling enough to tell a rich visual story of its own.
Jason Chen covers fashion. Contact him at [email protected].