Off the beat: We’ll always have Beijing

Pull up a map of Beijing. Set your finger down dead center on the city. Draw it slightly up and to the left. It was a Tuesday night in the middle of summer, and I was there, at a small dumpling house in a nondescript part of the city. It’s the part where you wouldn’t go if you were a tourist — an out-of-the-way sort of anyplace you might stumble upon elsewhere.
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